My overnight bus from Uyuni got into La Paz around 6am where I then made my way uphill to my charming little hostel Residencial Latino. After the past week of very restless and sleepless nights it was great to have a private room to recuperate in. A much-needed nap later, we were off to do the walking tour at 1:30pm. La Paz is such an interesting city, blending the modern with the traditional. We'd walk through an urbanised part of the city, turn the corner and be in a market where the cholitas would be selling their fresh produce, another corner and we'd be in the Witches' Market where there were all sorts of trinkets and potions for sale (including llama foetuses). Anyways not much to this day besides the tour, eating and resting.
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Day 25
Death Road Day!! We booked with Gravity, the best company out there - when you're cycling down a road famous for death, you want to know you're in the best hands. We left La Paz around 8am and reached the top of the mountain after about an hour where we were kitted up with our gear and bikes. To appease Pachamama (Mother Nature), we did a ceremony where we took a swig of 96% alcohol and poured some on our bikes and the ground before taking off.
The first part (20km) was on paved road and more to get us accustomed to our bikes and the super sensitive brakes. While the view was spectacular, it was hard to appreciate it when you had to avoid the cars and trucks also using the road. While others (from both my group and other tour groups) were zooming past me on the straight stretches of road, I decided to play it safe for now. As we neared the end of the paved road, there was a person lying on the side of the road with blood all over his head. Turns out he had hit his front brakes too hard and flipped forward. What was worse was that his helmet hadn't been buckled up. I don't know what ended up happening to him but as the ambulance was called, it was a pretty scary reminder that it's still a pretty dangerous ride.
As we went through the checkpoint, it was time to begin the real Death Road, unpaved and rocky. A new road had been built a while back so this old road is now only used mainly for tourism or for those living on the route. That was a relief. However as we were about to begin the ride down, our guide told us that a tourist had died just two days ago after hitting the brakes too hard and flipping over the edge. Another sobering thought about safety.
The first part of the ride was, to be honest, terrifying for me. It was narrow, I had to get off my bike to avoid a car, the cliff was so close, the road was so rocky. Because I was going so slowly it made the ride so much more bumpier and because my hands were constantly tensed on the brakes, it made for some really sore wrists. However as I got more and more comfortable with the bike, I let go of the brakes and allowed myself to pick up some speed. After that, the ride was amazingly fun! Going around bends was still slow, but zooming down the straight stretches was so exhilarating. You almost kinda forget there's a sheer drop just metres next to you since you're so focused on the road ahead scanning for any rocks or potholes that could send you flying.
Every now and then, a car or truck would approach in the opposite direction. That's when you, as the cyclist, had to give way and move left. Left meant the edge of the cliff. That was when it got terrifying again but other than those movements, it was a fun ride down to the bottom. You get to ride under small waterfalls and through streams, all the while there's a photographer taking cool action shots of you as you ride the 32km.
At the bottom, I felt a massive sense of relief and achievement - I had survived Death Road!!
Celebratory beers ensued at the local bar where the group all recounted our own versions of the ride. Chatted with two Indian brothers, Nithin and Nijoy, who were doing a whirlwind trip and turns out they're in Cusco for NYE as well so we're planning to meet up there.
The day finished with dinner at an animal sanctuary which was really cool because the humans were the ones in the cage. A long bus ride back up the mountain (not via Death Road!) later, I was eventually back in La Paz exhausted but so happy I had conquered Death Road.
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Day 26
An early morning departure mishap - our bus company Bolivia Hop forgot to pick us up. However they sent a taxi and we eventually caught up to the bus so no dramas. First stop was Lake Tiquana where our bus was driven onto a raft and ferried across the lake. No wonder they had put us on such a small bus!
By lunch, we had made it to Copacabana and Lake Titicaca. Such a touristy place but still charming. It's like a little beach town offering jet skis and paragliding, despite being way up in the mountains, Lake Titicaca being the highest lake in the world. Famous for its fried trout, we had to try some before our boat trip to Isla del Sol. Wasn't impressed, perhaps the restaurant we had it at wasn't good. Oh well.
An hour boat trip later, we were on Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) where we hiked through the terraces of the island. The views from the top of the island were stunning. I wish I had more time to explore but we had to rush for our boat back to Copacabana. In the end, we actually spent more time on the boat than on the actual island.
After that, it was a simple border crossing between Bolivia and Peru, before continuing on to Puno for dinner and then the long overnight drive to Cusco.
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Day 27
Getting into Cusco at 5:30am, Bolivia Hop organised for a taxi to take us to our hostel. However when we got there, they informed us that there was an error with the system and that there actually was no availability. Joy - no accommodation for NYE. We ended up walking the streets enquiring at every place we could find that actually had their doors open this early in the morning. Hostels were out of the picture at this late notice. We eventually found a hotel, Estancia San Blas, offering discounted rates because they were newly opened. At only $50USD a night for a twin room with ensuite and breakfast, we were sold. No more party hostels for us!
Spent the day exploring the charming city of Cusco on a walking tour before treating ourselves to a late lunch at Marcelo Batata, a very popular local restaurant. I had the alpaca steak which was absolutely divine, so tender and flavoursome. After that it was simply a case of resting up before the big NYE night ahead.
As planned after Death Road, we met up with Nithin and Nijoy (who also had accommodation issues) just after 8pm for a quick bite to eat before descending onto the main square to take in all the festivities. Bars were so packed it was almost impossible to order anything and so hard to breathe. We decided to stay in the open instead. The main square was lit up so beautifully and just buzzing with excitement.
As the midnight moment approached, more and more fireworks were being discharged into the air. Small ones though, seems that you can just buy your own and light them. As the countdown began, the noise in the square intensified and as midnight struck, a thunderous cheer erupted as fireworks shot up all around us. It was bloody intense and so amazing!! I've never been so close to fireworks that I could see and feel the sparks showering down on me. It was a great way to ring in the new year and one I won't forget anytime soon. Happy new year all!!
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Day 28
First day of 2016, slow day, recovery day. Really didn't do much of interest. Just a day of preparation for the Inca Trail and the remainder of the trip afterwards.
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Day 29
Stormy day in Cusco so plenty of indoor activities. Spent the morning at the Inca Museum learning about the history of the ancient civilisation. Of particular fame at this museum are the mummified bodies if several Incans originally discovered at Machu Picchu.
The afternoon was dedicated to a workshop at the Choco Museo where we got to go through the process of creating chocolate, right from the roasting of the cacao bean through to the creation of the individual chocolates. It was such a fun afternoon learning about the process and getting yo taste the product as it changed along the way. To finish we got to create our own chocolates using moulds as a nifty souvenir of our time in Cusco. Well worth the visit if you're in Cusco.
Our last prep before our Inca Trail the next day was to head to Loki Hostel to pay the balance of our trip and to attend the briefing session. It sure was a lot of information! While it meant that I had a pretty good idea of what to expect each day of the trek, it was a bit overwhelming at the same time. Nevertheless, better to be prepared than sorry.
As a treat, we ate Cusco's top rated restaurant, Morena, that night to "prepare" us for the Inca Trail. My pork belly dish was delicious and the serving size was huge. Another place I'd recommend!
After dinner, it was back to the hotel to pack and prepare ourselves physically and mentally for the Inca Trail. It'll definitely be a challenge to get through the four days but I'm looking forward to seeing how I cope. Only time will tell!
HBL signing out from Cusco, Peru.
Up next: The highs and lows of the Inca Trail...
Previously: Desert fun: Salta to Uyuni salt flats...
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